The beautiful leaves of Ginkgo biloba. Leaves of Ginkgo senesce (age) and dehise (drop) closely together. (Ken Spencer)

Q. I am a high school biology teacher and a student gave me some Ginkgo seeds from her uncle's tree in Ohio. Would it be feasible to germinate and grow the seeds? If so, how would I do this? — L. Flory, Chesapeake

A. They say that one is the loneliest number. Well, Ginkgo biloba is the world's loneliest tree. The ancient plant, thought for centuries to be extinct, is the only living member of the division Ginkgophyta. As such, it's also all alone in its class, order, family and genus. Think about that next time you're feeling alone and blue!

It is found in the fossil record dating back 270 million years ago. Once, it and relatives were widespread throughout the world, but they retreated until  2 million years ago, leaving the Ginkgo restricted in range to a small area in a China. The Chinese began cultivating it around 1,000 years ago, eventually spreading to Korea and Japan around the 14th and 15th centuries. The first recorded encounter by a Westerner, with the Dutch East India Trading Co., was in Japan around 1700. It was eventually introduced to Europe around 1750.

The closest remaining relatives are the cycads. Like the cycads, Ginkgo is dioecious (male and female plants). Both are somewhat unusual in that they produce motile sperm like the lower plants — ferns and mosses, and the algae. Landscapers will avoid the use for female plants because of their messy and stinky seeds.

OK, so what about the question of propagation? Yes, Ginkgo can be successfully propagated by seed. The seeds should be collected in the fall and cleaned, removing the fleshy and stinky (think vomit) covering. Rinse, dry and store in slightly moist peat moss or similar in the refrigerator.

Before attempting to germinate, the seeds require stratification. This is a moist-chilling treatment that simulates the moist/cool conditions of winter — a survival mechanism that the seeds of many temperate zone plants exhibit, ensuring that germination occurs after winter conditions have past.

To accomplish, place seeds in a moisture-tight container (jar or freezer bag) mixed with sterile, moist media, such as vermiculite. Place the seeds in the refrigerator for one to two months at 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Check weekly to ensure there's no fungal contamination.

After stratification, and before attempting to germinate, seeds should be scarified to ensure that they can imbibe water. This can be accomplished by carefully abrading the seed coat with a knife, file or sandpaper. This facilitates the uptake of water, a prerequisite to germination. Soak the seeds overnight in cold water and discard any that float. Dry seeds and store until it's time to attempt germination.

Finally, on to germination. Seeds can be germinated inside or out-of-doors. If you have a cold frame, this would be a good place. If so, ensure that it does not become too hot inside the structure. They also can be sown in a seed bed or several seeds per small pot. Take care to use a coarse, well-drained mix that will not keep the seeds too wet, but will ensure they do not dry out. Indirect light is best.

Seeds can also be germinated indoors following the same procedures and precautions. As seeds germinate, progressively step up to individual pots before stretching or roots become entangled.

Email your questions with your home address and receive a complimentary package of seeds if your question is chosen for publication.

Send questions to wkspen@gmail.com or to Home + Living c/o The Virginian-Pilot, 150 W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk, VA 23510.