Lilies benefit from being lifted or divided every three to five years to stay vibrant and vigorous.
Reviews and recommendations are unbiased and products are independently selected. Postmedia may earn an affiliate commission from purchases made through links on this page.
As I look out my front window today, I see a breathtaking display of lilies among the perennials in my front island bed. But that kind of view does not come without some “intervention” on the part of the gardener. To remain vibrant and vigorous, lilies benefit from being lifted or divided every three to five years, depending on the variety.
Spring or early summer is the best time to assess which lilies will need to be lifted. If the new growth on a clump is spindly, the stems shorter than usual and the flower buds narrower than in past years, these changes in appearance signal that the bulbs may be overcrowded. Or, the soil may have become compacted over the years or the lily beetle may have been chomping on the leaves, weakening the stems. Mark these clumps as in need of division.
We deliver the local news you need in these turbulent times on weekdays at 3 p.m.
A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder.
The next issue of Saskatoon StarPhoenix Afternoon Headlines will soon be in your inbox.
We encountered an issue signing you up. Please try again
The best time to divide lilies is in the fall, or alternatively about four weeks after blooming, when the leaves are starting to yellow and stems are browning. By this time all the surplus energy will have returned to the bulb. Below are five tips to successfully divide and replant lilies in Saskatchewan gardens.
Before you start to dig, decide what you want to do with the surplus bulbs. They can be planted in another area of the garden or placed in buried pots for planting in spring. Or, they can be packed in peat moss in plastic bags and stored in the fridge for a couple of weeks for later distribution to friends or at a plant exchange in your area. While in your fridge, keep them away from fruits and vegetables, as these may release ethylene, which can damage the developing flower bud in the bulb.
If you have been blessed with visits from the dreaded lily beetle, it’s a good idea to disturb the soil by gentle digging around your lilies, even if you are not planning to lift them. This can bring the lily beetle to the surface late in the year, when you may be able to dispatch a number of them.
Some people are sensitive to lily bulbs, so it is a good idea to wear gloves when handling them. With a spade or shovel, about 10 cm away from the clump, dig straight down to about 20 cm and pull the handle towards you. If you have sandy soil, the clump may lift. If not, go to the opposite side of the clump and repeat this lifting motion. Work your way around the clump until it lifts easily. Gently work the soil away from the bulbs. You do not want to damage individual bulbs, but rather gently pry apart the bulbs within the clump. If stems remain attached, you can twist them away from the bulb. Inspect the bulbs for rot and discard any that are diseased.
Then sort the bulbs by size. The largest bulbs will probably bloom next year, medium bulbs may take two years to bloom, and small bulblets up to three or four seasons. Discard these if you are impatient or have limited space in your garden. It is a good idea to plant the same size bulb in each planting hole, as these are more likely to produce blooms at the same time.
Replant the bulbs in full sun in well drained soil in holes three times the depth of the height of the bulb. Amend the bottom of the holes with compost. Place three to five bulbs about 2 cm apart with pointed ends up and press them firmly into the composted soil. Fill the hole with a combination of compost and soil. Keep the clusters of bulbs about 70 cm apart to avoid overcrowding. Water well after planting. If you are saving bulbs to plant in the spring, use pots that are four times the height of the bulb. Put 5 cm of compost and potting soil mix in the pots. Place three bulbs per pot as previously described and bury the pot so the rim is at ground level. You can then transplant the lilies to a permanent location in the spring, removing the entire clump, with minimal disturbance of the roots that may have begun to form.
Mark the spot where you plant lilies with the variety name (if known) and if you planted bulbs or bulblets. It’s amazing what we forget over winter.
This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society. Reach the society by email at saskperennial@hotmail.com or visit their website at saskperennial.ca. You can find them on Facebook at facebook.com/saskperennial.
The news seems to be flying at us faster all the time. From COVID-19 updates to politics and crime and everything in between, it can be hard to keep up. With that in mind, the Saskatoon StarPhoenix has created an Afternoon Headlines newsletter that can be delivered daily to your inbox to help make sure you are up to date with the most vital news of the day. Click here to subscribe.
Postmedia is committed to maintaining a lively but civil forum for discussion and encourage all readers to share their views on our articles. Comments may take up to an hour for moderation before appearing on the site. We ask you to keep your comments relevant and respectful. We have enabled email notifications—you will now receive an email if you receive a reply to your comment, there is an update to a comment thread you follow or if a user you follow comments. Visit our Community Guidelines for more information and details on how to adjust your email settings.
365 Bloor Street East, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4
© 2022 The Star Phoenix, a division of Postmedia Network Inc. All rights reserved. Unauthorized distribution, transmission or republication strictly prohibited.
This website uses cookies to personalize your content (including ads), and allows us to analyze our traffic. Read more about cookies here. By continuing to use our site, you agree to our Terms of Service and Privacy Policy.